What a turbulent 72 hours it's been as a surfer in Sydney. To be confronted so immediately with the true stakes of doing something that is so much a part life. Something so futile and so beautiful at the same time.

If you're receiving these posts then you've already established a steady relationship with the ocean. You know the experience, what the ocean brings to your own life. To me it's a source of vitality; the total immersion in nature is a check-in; a mirror that taps into a deeper sense of where I'm at as a human. And then there's the actual act of surfing, the unbeatable act of connection and presence on a pure wave My experience is equal parts beauty and awe. I know fear in the face of the ocean's power but the fear of sharks has always been an abstract one. Naively thinking they're out there but... On Monday that hit home in a big way.

Today the surf was as good as i've seen it for a long while and the empty lineup a bizarre confrontation of thoughts. Untouchable out of respect for the victim and responders; forbidden by authority. Tomorrow the beach is due to reopen and the questions that most most surfers are grappling with, is "will I surf tomorrow?"

My love and thoughts are with the family of the two people hospitalised, their family, responders and everyone that's been affected.

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