:: The Big Sea


Watching Richie Lovett surf you'd never believe that seven years ago he was learning to walk again.  His story of defying the odds and beating a rare bone cancer is amazing.   The fact he made a return to competitive surfing,  prosthetic hip and all, just five years later is a true tale of champion.  Now throw into the adventure a midnight tsunami in a tiger infested jungle in Java and you've got yourself a life of survival and a story worth reading. I met up with Richie this morning for a paddle at his home break of North Steyne.  He's ripping and relaxed as usual but his phone's ringing off the hook and you can tell there's a bit of nervous excitement underneath it all.   Must be quite a feeling to get a life story like his down on paper.   Tonight's he'll be officially launching his book, The Big Sea, with author Sean Doherty down at The Steyne from 7pm.

Some fun waves around today - hope you scored a couple! :: Murray

DAILYMurray Fraser