It’s building!! The South swell has filled in and it was still rising when I left the beach an hour or so ago. A couple of double-overheader’s push across the bank at Queenie around 11am and each set after had a little extra to add.
Today’s post comes in two halves: At first light the swell was still smallish with a full tide. Nice shape but a little full. I had a second look at 10am and the swell was well and truely kicking in, the tide was dropping and the rip straight out front was horrendous – so much water moving and way out to sea! Somewhere in between there must have been a sweet spot of half an hour of so when it was cooking.
Ok, back to work now!