An assortment of heavy clouds were clogging up the dawn sky. It was so dark it almost felt like a pre-clock change morning last week. There's not much energy in the swell this morning but all that's going to change. It was one to two foot at best at first light but by this afternoon we should start seeing the leading edge of a solid South Swell. By tomorrow it'll be 6-8 feet and probably bigger in the open reefs and slabs. The wind's looking strong but it's not a bad angle.
Looking forward to seeing what this first Autumn swell brings tomorrow.